Tech Geek Thread Do-Over

[Tadhg Adams]

Control Panel -> Add or Remove Programs

[macul]

I finally decided to see for myself how good Ubuntu is. I use linux a little bit at work (we run our helpdesk server off of Slackware), but it's been a while since I've really used it. Color me impressed. The pre-installed applications are nice. The Synaptic Package Manager makes installation of other apps a breeze (I always hated having to string together install after install).

I plan on using it for serving up web pages, so I'll be removing some applications and installing others. I'm in the process of installing MySQL, Apache, and PHP. I just configured NXServer so I can work remotely.

Very nice so far.

[Nikita]

Ah, found the thread:

Here's a copy of the question I posted in Rita's...


I have a dumb computer question:

I have gotten pretty decent at drawing my computer artwork with a mouse...but I use my work computer. I've tried drawing with the mouse on my computer at home, and it won't move the way I want it to. I've adjusted the mouse settings to try and correct the problem. I've even changed mouses. But nothing seems to help. The mouse wants to "float" away from where I want it to go. It just won't "draw" for me. It won't stay in one place. I'm wondering if perhaps it's not the mouse itself but something in the computer that's effecting it? We have a brand new computer (just a year old).

I can't figure out what the problem is because the mouse I use at work is nice and smooth and goes where I want it to.

Any ideas on what could be causing this "floating" problem? It also wants to "jag" or "zig zag" when I try to draw straight.


Thanks in advance for any suggestions.



Sorry, to clarify, it's the cursor that "floats" not the mouse. LOL. (it would be kind of creepy if the mouse itself kept "floating" around) No matter how I try to move the mouse, the cursor will not follow properly. I've used regular mouses and the newer optical ones and have the same problem with each type.

[Spike-X]

I've had that happen before too, and it's a pain in the arse. No idea what causes it, though. Maybe something simple as your mouse pad?

[the_coldest_sun]

ARGH! I have ANOTHER problem. They never end with me, I swear.

Anyway, I just bought a new Samsung LCD tv and have my computer hooked up to it. Everything works great except when I try to use my headphones. I have the computer audio connected directly to the tv, using a mini-jack plug-in (like the picture below).
http://electronicssuperstore.net/images/mini_jack.jpg

When I plug my headphones into the tv's headphone jack, I can only hear the left channel. Its not even in mono; the right channel audio is missing altogether. When it plays on my tv speakers, it at least plays in mono (or as stereo as tv speakers can get anyway). Now its not a problem with the headphones themselves because they DO work fine with my mp3 player, and I can hear stereo when hooked up to the tv's headphone jack while playing video games and movies. It's ONLY gives me problems with the PC audio.

When in PC mode, the TV gives me no options or access to the equalizer to handle the pan settings. When I adjust the panning on the PC, the right channel audio is still missing even if I turn up the right channel audio up completely. Now, I'm pretty sure the problem rests with the mini-jack plug, since there's no distinctive Left AND Right channel plugs, just a SINGULAR mini-jack plug. What confuses me is that I AM able to get FULL audio sound on the tv speakers when I unplug the headphones from the Tv jack. When I plug them in, I only get the Left.

Does anyone know I can resolve this problem without resorting to external speakers or plugging my headphones directly to the PC itself?? Thanks in advance.

EDIT!!!!!!!!!!!!

Okay, I figured out the problem. Its a faulty Radioshack mini-jack cable. I was fiddling with it, and turns out, the mini-jack input CANNOT be plugged in ALL THE WAY. I has to be UNplugged just a tad (1 mm or so) so that the FULL audio can be heard. Geez, what a headache. :mad:

Well, thats what I get for paying only 4 bucks for a Radioshack brand cable. :o

[Brandon Hanvey]

Any ideas on what could be causing this "floating" problem? It also wants to "jag" or "zig zag" when I try to draw straight.


Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Sorry, to clarify, it's the cursor that "floats" not the mouse. LOL. (it would be kind of creepy if the mouse itself kept "floating" around) No matter how I try to move the mouse, the cursor will not follow properly. I've used regular mouses and the newer optical ones and have the same problem with each type.

What program are you drawing in? PhotoShop?

If It is PS, there is an easy way to draw straight lines. Hold down the shift key as you draw. It will restrict the things you draw to straight lines. First hold down shift then click with the mouse where you want to start the line and then drag to where you want to end the line and unclick.

[Nikita]

What program are you drawing in? PhotoShop?

If It is PS, there is an easy way to draw straight lines. Hold down the shift key as you draw. It will restrict the things you draw to straight lines. First hold down shift then click with the mouse where you want to start the line and then drag to where you want to end the line and unclick.



Hi Brandon. Thanks for your reply. It doesn't seem to matter what art program I use. The cursor just doesn't want to follow the mouse properly. Actually it pretty much does it all the time no matter what I'm doing on the computer. I just notice it more when I'm trying to draw because it makes drawing more difficult. I have to kind of "sweep" the mouse along, to get the cursor to follow it, instead of just being able to keep the mouse flat and moving it. I have to use a kind of sweeping motion as if I'm using the mouse to brush something off the table like a little broom. If I just keep the mouse flat, and move it right, the cursor will not just move right unless I "sweep" the mouse to the right. (does that make sense?)

It does this no matter which type of mouse I try to use.

[Stellar]

Even if you're using an optical mouse?

[Spike-X]

Hi Brandon. Thanks for your reply. It doesn't seem to matter what art program I use. The cursor just doesn't want to follow the mouse properly. Actually it pretty much does it all the time no matter what I'm doing on the computer. I just notice it more when I'm trying to draw because it makes drawing more difficult. I have to kind of "sweep" the mouse along, to get the cursor to follow it, instead of just being able to keep the mouse flat and moving it. I have to use a kind of sweeping motion as if I'm using the mouse to brush something off the table like a little broom. If I just keep the mouse flat, and move it right, the cursor will not just move right unless I "sweep" the mouse to the right. (does that make sense?)

It does this no matter which type of mouse I try to use.
Maybe you're just a spaz?




*smiley*

[Brandon Hanvey]

It does this no matter which type of mouse I try to use.

Have you tried adjusting the mouse speed? If you use a PC, its under Control Panel>Mouse. If a Mac, its System Preferences>Keyboard & Mouse.

Your mouse speed may be set really slow. Try adjusting to to a faster speed.

[Nikita]

Even if you're using an optical mouse?


Yeah, even the optical mouse does it.

[Nikita]

Maybe you're just a spaz?




*smiley*




Har, har. :p Dork.

*punching you in the shoulder again*

[Nikita]

Have you tried adjusting the mouse speed? If you use a PC, its under Control Panel>Mouse. If a Mac, its System Preferences>Keyboard & Mouse.

Your mouse speed may be set really slow. Try adjusting to to a faster speed.


Yeah, I tried that too. Doesn't seem to help much. The cursor just won't follow properly.

Ah well. Thanks for the suggestions anyway. If I ever find a solution, I'll update you guys and let you know if I find something that works.


Thanks Brandon.

[Brandon Hanvey]

You could try updating/replacing the mouse driver.
http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/mouseandkeyboard/Download.mspx

[Brandon Hanvey]

Also if you are really into drawing on the computer, you might want to get a Wacom tablet. You can get one for as low as $100.00.

http://www.wacom.com/productinfo/

[macul]

Odd problem, nikita. Almost sounds like the mouse isn't calibrated, though I'm not sure I've ever calibrated a mouse (maybe an old serial, but even then I don't think so...).

[Nikita]

You could try updating/replacing the mouse driver.
http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/mouseandkeyboard/Download.mspx

Hmmm...the mouse driver. I never thought of that. That's a good idea. Thanks Brandon.

[Nikita]

Also if you are really into drawing on the computer, you might want to get a Wacom tablet. You can get one for as low as $100.00.

http://www.wacom.com/productinfo/



Yeah, I've been wanting to get a good drawing tablet for a while now. Thanks for the link.

[Nikita]

Odd problem, nikita. Almost sounds like the mouse isn't calibrated, though I'm not sure I've ever calibrated a mouse (maybe an old serial, but even then I don't think so...).


Heh, yeah, I know. I guess I just got used to the cursor doing this quirky thing because I wasn't drawing much on the computer until recently. Now that I'm trying to, the problem has become more noticeable.

If my brother and I can figure out the problem eventually, I'll give an update.

[gary bolt]

I'm working on a grant proposal and I want to put a link to a course I'm planning to take. Last week I could call up the website by using Google. This week I get a message saying "Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage". Could I get someone using Explorer and someone using Firefox to Google Atlin Art Centre and tell me if they get a functional link please. I'd appreciate the feedback. Thanks.

[thespianphryne]

I'm using Firefox on my Mac. http://www.atlinart.com/ takes me straight to the site. Same deal with Explorer.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m262/phryneateleusis/Other/atlinscreen.jpg

-Das

[gary bolt]

I'm using Firefox on my Mac. http://www.atlinart.com/ takes me straight to the site. Same deal with Explorer.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m262/phryneateleusis/Other/atlinscreen.jpg

-Das

Thanks, Das. It won't work on either of my computers, both of which use Explorer. It won't come up when I click on the link you included either. Could it be a local server thing maybe?

[darkkeeperjr]

So I'm looking around for a used computer when online someone is selling one for about $200.00. they write out the "stats" for lack of a better word:

2.8ghz p4 w/ht
512 ram with two more slots
20 GB and 30 GB hdd
C.d. rom
Cd.rw

Can someone tell me what each line mean,also are these good stats? low?high?
I want a computer for WoW and for hitting Youtube and surfing and so on and so on.

Help Me!

[Spike-X]

So I'm looking around for a used computer when online someone is selling one for about $200.00. they write out the "stats" for lack of a better word:

2.8ghz p4 w/ht
512 ram with two more slots
20 GB and 30 GB hdd
C.d. rom
Cd.rw

Can someone tell me what each line mean,also are these good stats? low?high?
I want a computer for WoW and for hitting Youtube and surfing and so on and so on.

Help Me!

You're gonna need something better than that for WoW, I'd imagine.

[macul]

Thanks, Das. It won't work on either of my computers, both of which use Explorer. It won't come up when I click on the link you included either. Could it be a local server thing maybe?

If you can't talk to the site from either of your computers, but other people can, then it is likely a DNS or routing issue between your ISP and the web site.

[macul]

So I'm looking around for a used computer when online someone is selling one for about $200.00. they write out the "stats" for lack of a better word:

2.8ghz p4 w/ht
512 ram with two more slots
20 GB and 30 GB hdd
C.d. rom
Cd.rw

Can someone tell me what each line mean,also are these good stats? low?high?
I want a computer for WoW and for hitting Youtube and surfing and so on and so on.

Help Me!

You'd really need to know the video card details before anyone can make a judgement on how well the computer will run WoW.

[gary bolt]

If you can't talk to the site from either of your computers, but other people can, then it is likely a DNS or routing issue between your ISP and the web site.

Thanks for the input macul. I'm away from home posting on a relatives Mac (weird, no wheel mouse). I'll look into that when I get home in a couple of days.

[LtMarvel]

Actually, Wow is somewhat famous in not requiring the latest and greatest in tech.

The first thing I would do though is fill up those two empty memory slots.

[Spike-X]

Well, I could be wrong.

It's not like I actually know shit about gaming.

[Jeff Brady]

2.8ghz p4 w/ht
512 ram with two more slots
20 GB and 30 GB hdd
C.d. rom
Cd.rw

No one really told you what that stuff means, so here goes, line by line:

Pentium 4 processor, running at 2.8 gigahertz with hyperthreading. This indicates how fast your computer can process information.

512 megabytes of Random Access Memory, with room for more. This indicates how much information your computer can process at a time. It is also a good idea to note what the RAM speed is, but not integral.

Two hard drives; one with 20 gigabytes of information storage, the other with 30. This is where all your stuff is. Your saved files, pictures, mp3s, installed programs, etc, go into these.

CD ROM - Compact Disc Read-Only Memory. For putting CDs in.

CD-RW - Compact Disc Re-Writable. For creating your own CDs.

I don't really need to explain those last two further, do I?

All in all, it's not a bad system. You really do need to check out the video card specifications, as Macul suggested, as well as a sound card (for connecting speakers).

[darkkeeperjr]

Thanks!!!!! Don't know how "not knowing" I'll be without you guys help!

[the_coldest_sun]

Actually, my computer "stats" ;) are:
-AMD 2.0 GHz processor
-512 MB ram w/1 more slot
-single 30 GB IDE hdd
-DVD-/+RW
-CD-R

I bought a xfx geforce 6200 256 MB ram graphics card to upgrade from integrated graphics, and I'm able to play WoW just fine. My graphics card is hardly the best card to get but it manages to get the job done for that particular game, if nothing else. There does tend to be a bit of lagging every now and then but that seems to be a problem with my DSL service than anything else.

[darkkeeperjr]

Why are the times at CBR and Yahoo are an hour behind. Didn't they get the spring ahead message? or is it something on my end? My computer clock shows the correct time.What's up with that?

[Stellar]

Okay, so my CD-Burner is stuck and I need to stick the metal stick thing in the little hole to get it open. What's the problem?

[GremlinClr]

No one really told you what that stuff means, so here goes, line by line:

Pentium 4 processor, running at 2.8 gigahertz with hyperthreading. This indicates how fast your computer can process information.

512 megabytes of Random Access Memory, with room for more. This indicates how much information your computer can process at a time. It is also a good idea to note what the RAM speed is, but not integral.

Two hard drives; one with 20 gigabytes of information storage, the other with 30. This is where all your stuff is. Your saved files, pictures, mp3s, installed programs, etc, go into these.

CD ROM - Compact Disc Read-Only Memory. For putting CDs in.

CD-RW - Compact Disc Re-Writable. For creating your own CDs.

I don't really need to explain those last two further, do I?

All in all, it's not a bad system. You really do need to check out the video card specifications, as Macul suggested, as well as a sound card (for connecting speakers).

Also, since you didn't list a graphics card I'm guessing it has integrated graphics. So you will have to pick up a graphics card. As the_coldest_sun mentioned it doesn't have to be very powerful to run WoW. I've run it on a Geforce 5200 and it was smoov like buttah.

What you have to watch out for though is what slots are on your motherboard for a graphics card. Judging from what you posted I would say you probably have 2 PCI slots and 1 AGP slot as that seems to be the most common.

Whatever card you get just make sure it's an AGP card made in the last 3 years and you'll be fine. AGP cards are getting harder to find since the newest standard, PCI-E, came along. You might find a good deal on eBay on a used one.

-------->Avoid the Geforce MX series like the freakin' plague. They're cheap... and you can't even say you get what you pay for. Just horrible.

[Matthew E]

What simple keystroke combination on the lower-right corner of a computer keyboard - number pad, cursor arrows, that whole area - can produce the following effects:

- the mouse pointer, when over certain windows, like some webpages or documents, is in permanent 'select' mode and highlights everything it passes over
- every time you click on a link, it opens up a new window to go to that new page

and how can it be reversed?

Because my one-year-old son reached up to the keyboard tray and did whatever-it-is twice yesterday, and the only way I could find to get rid of it was to disconnect the mouse, reboot, and reattach the mouse.

(He does this a lot. He changed the TV settings too, so that the words that are occasionally displayed onscreen like 'volume' and 'mute' are now in Spanish. Don't know yet how to fix that one either.)

[LtMarvel]

TV is easy. Go to menu, setup, language and change it to Englais (English). Of course, those words are going to be in Spansih...

[SOGG]

What simple keystroke combination on the lower-right corner of a computer keyboard - number pad, cursor arrows, that whole area - can produce the following effects:

- the mouse pointer, when over certain windows, like some webpages or documents, is in permanent 'select' mode and highlights everything it passes over
- every time you click on a link, it opens up a new window to go to that new page

and how can it be reversed?

<snipped for space>

This isn't a question of where on the lower bottom. It's a keyboard input buffer problem that is especially prevalent on Windows. Hit enough keys at the same time (that includes a shift or caps lock) to fill it and it will be stuck that way. You have to clear the buffer for it to go away. If your keyboard is USB, just unplug it and plug it in -- device manager will do the rest.

Sometimes hitting escape enough times freezes the system for awhile and forces the buffer to reload. You can also try killing explorer and starting it back up. (ctrl+alt+del -> task manager->processes, highlight explorer and end process. Click new task and start explorer again)

For some reason, I thought sp2 fixed that issue.

[Matthew E]

Oh. Huh. Cool. Thanks.

[MacQuarrie]

I have a Mac problem. Well, actually, a friend does, but I get to try to help him.

It's an old bondi blue imac running some flavor of OS 8. It crashed last week and now it can't find the hard drive. I booted from an OS 9 CD, and tried to run Disk First Aid. It says the drive has errors but it can't fix them, and the drive cannot be mounted.

So, how do I get this thing to start up long enough fro me to copy his files off?

I tried booting it as a target drive so I could connect it via firewire to another mac, but no go. I just get the flashing question mark folder icon.

Is there a utility I can download and put on a disk or something? Do I have to pull the hard drive and mount it as a slave in another machine? There are some really important files on this drive.

[Nikita]

Mouse update: So we finally kind of fixed the weird mouse problem. Bought another new mouse. It still wants to "stick" a little, but it's much better then the other two we tried. This is another laser guided one. I still can't quite draw with it, but at least it's easier to use overall.

[GremlinClr]

I have a Mac problem. Well, actually, a friend does, but I get to try to help him.

It's an old bondi blue imac running some flavor of OS 8. It crashed last week and now it can't find the hard drive. I booted from an OS 9 CD, and tried to run Disk First Aid. It says the drive has errors but it can't fix them, and the drive cannot be mounted.

So, how do I get this thing to start up long enough fro me to copy his files off?

I tried booting it as a target drive so I could connect it via firewire to another mac, but no go. I just get the flashing question mark folder icon.

Is there a utility I can download and put on a disk or something? Do I have to pull the hard drive and mount it as a slave in another machine? There are some really important files on this drive.

You could always try removing the hard drive, putting it in a ziplock bag and freezing it for a few hours. The cold makes everything contract and sometimes that'll make it last long enough to pull some files off. Just make sure you have an external hard drive or something similar ready to receive the files. This trick often works, but not for long.

[Typo Lad]

So, how do I get this thing to start up long enough fro me to copy his files off?

I tried booting it as a target drive so I could connect it via firewire to another mac, but no go. I just get the flashing question mark folder icon.

Is there a utility I can download and put on a disk or something? Do I have to pull the hard drive and mount it as a slave in another machine? There are some really important files on this drive.

You're going to have to pull it. It will run as a slave in that G4 I sent you.

And target drive doesn't work because there's no FW port.

[MacQuarrie]

You're going to have to pull it. It will run as a slave in that G4 I sent you.

And target drive doesn't work because there's no FW port.

The G4 is in service at Scott's, and the iMac is in my dining room. Fortunately I have a couple other G4s to put it into. Though I might try the freezing trick too.

Thanks!

[Typo Lad]

Does Scott like it?

[MacQuarrie]

Does Scott like it?

Yes, very much so. I was supposed to convey proper thanks and expressions of gratitude, but I suck that way.

I have a few things to do yet, first of which is recovering his old hard drive. Second is adding an extension to the USB cord so he can put his keyboard where he wants it. Then I need to set up his scanner and so on.

Hey, do yu happen to know the jumper settings for that drive to be a slave? It's a Maxtor, I think 4gb. (It's in the freezer).

[Typo Lad]

He's very welcome.

I hate how short the apple KBs are. Give him the white wireless, man.

Google the model number for the jumper settings.

[MacQuarrie]

Did that. got it installed, ran DiskWarrior. It says it can't recover, serious corruption. Apparently when I tried Disk First Aid, it deleted some crucial information. I'm googling other utilities now. Stellar Phoenix says "major corruption." I'm apparently screwed.

[Typo Lad]

Oh snap. First Aid screwed it? I've heard that sometimes happened with old versions, but thought it fixed.

[MacQuarrie]

I tried running it from an OS 9 disk at Scott's the other night. sigh.

Trying something I downloaded, called Boomerang. It says it can see the files, but I have to pay if I want to recover them. And all the file names appear to be gone. sigh.

[shaxper]

I just installed CoreFTP and I can't make it connect to any of my websites. I'm 99% sure all the login info is correct. I tried to create an exception in the Windows XP firewall settings, as well as set up Port Forwarding through my router, but I must be doing something wrong. Can someone talk me through the basics of doing all of this like I'm an idiot, because apparently I am.

[shaxper]

Perhaps I should be more specific.

When I attempt to connect, it takes a surprisingly long time, and then says

Can't establish connection. An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host

When I do port forwarding and firewall exceptions, should I specify a port or provide a range? I've tried both and neither has worked, but at least I could begin to know where to start.

Something else isn't working right, and I'd truly and sincerely appreciate any advice anyone could offer on this.

[jessecuster3]

Hey guys, here's a few questions, I just got a new HDTV and have been playing around with all kinds of set ups. I currently have my PC hooked up to it and it looks and sounds great. Soon though I will be moving my PC across the room and do have a monitor there to hook it up to. What I would like to do is be able to connect my PC to both the monitor and the TV about 10 feet away. I also would need to connect the sound card to the TV and that is just a headphone jack(I forget what that little connector is called). So how would you all do it?

[Typo Lad]

You should get a media shifting device, like a slingbox (http://www.slingmedia.com/indexa.php). That's the best way to do that.

[jessecuster3]

You should get a media shifting device, like a slingbox (http://www.slingmedia.com/indexa.php). That's the best way to do that.

Can't I just split my monitor cable between the TV and my PC?

[Forefinger]

Is there a user friendly computer program that I can download to create DVD's that can be played in a DVD player?

I have a couple of programs that came packaged with my computer, but while I can write files to a DVD-R disk, my computer freezes whenever I try to make a DVD player quality disk. And it's hard as hell to figure out how to use them. And yes....times like these...I know that I should have gotten a MAC.

[gary bolt]

I have quite a few digital photos on my computer (about 6.6 GB)and don't have them backed up (shame). I'm considering getting an external hard drive. Is that good way to go?

[Typo Lad]

gary - that's what I do.

[gary bolt]

gary - that's what I do.

I consider you a tech geek therefore I consider this to be confirmation. Thanks.

Is it easy to set things up so that my files got to the hard drive whenever I turn off my computer? I think I've heard of people doing that and it sounds ideal to me.

[Typo Lad]

Are you using a Mac or a PC?

[gary bolt]

Are you using a Mac or a PC?

PC........

[Typo Lad]

Hnh. Not sure what apps you can use. Most drives come with their own software. I've always beena fan of Maxtor.

[jessecuster3]

Anyone have experience with wireless keyboards that include mouse? If so, is there one you either recommend or to completely avoid?

[Typo Lad]

I love the Logitech MX series. The keyboard batteries last forever.

[jessecuster3]

I love the Logitech MX series. The keyboard batteries last forever.

Do they have a mouse of some kind(trackball, etc.) on the kb?

[Typo Lad]

Oh... you meant built in? Not that I know of.

[jessecuster3]

Oh... you meant built in? Not that I know of.

Yeah its not going on a desk, its so that I can work the PC on my TV from the couch.

[Spike-X]

Anyone have experience with wireless keyboards that include mouse? If so, is there one you either recommend or to completely avoid?
I dunno if they have a model that has what you want, but as a general rule I second Morts' Logitech recommendation.

Avoid Microsoft. I bought a wireless set from them ages ago, and it just did not work. At all.

[Drew Van T.]

Is it easy to set things up so that my files got to the hard drive whenever I turn off my computer? I think I've heard of people doing that and it sounds ideal to me.

Doesn't that slow down the entire shutdown process, like with a factor 10? (Of course that may not matter to you. I, for one, never turn off my notebook).

As for external drives, the first thing I do is erase all the software the manufacturer put on there. Still prefer the old manual way of doing backups where you have full control and few things are automated.

[gary bolt]

Doesn't that slow down the entire shutdown process, like with a factor 10? (Of course that may not matter to you. I, for one, never turn off my notebook).

As for external drives, the first thing I do is erase all the software the manufacturer put on there. Still prefer the old manual way of doing backups where you have full control and few things are automated.

Good input. I'm not very techie so it wouldn't occur to me that automatic back-up would slow things down. Of course I only thought to do that because some other techie suggested it to me in the murky past. The main thing for me is that I have been convinced that I am living on borrowed time until I back up my important images.

I bought a portable external hard drive with 120 GB memory today that is powered by the USB connection but I haven't tried it out yet. I'm hoping that it is easy to use.

A related tech question I have about backing up files to an external hard drive - Is there a risk of the back-up drive crashing?

[Typo Lad]

There sure is. There's always a risk of backup failure.

[gary bolt]

There sure is. There's always a risk of backup failure.

Hmmm... Part of my motivation for backing up files is that my laptop is getting slow and I assumed it is getting "full". If I dump files to an external drive and delete the files from my laptop should I back up my back-up files somehow?

[Typo Lad]

That gets a tad redundant though. As we say in Hebrew, "Ain sof" - "there's no end to it"

[LtMarvel]

Um does your computer have a DVD writer? You can put pictures on a long term back up on a DVD.

[gary bolt]

That gets a tad redundant though. As we say in Hebrew, "Ain sof" - "there's no end to it"

Hey, I had a spiritual thought for once.

Um does your computer have a DVD writer? You can put pictures on a long term back up on a DVD.

I have steered away from saving to disk because it requires organisational skills of me. Such skills are poorly developed.

[Typo Lad]

Plus, DVDs have a limited shelf life. I backed some videos up to DVD ages ago and am now having issues with them.

[Drew Van T.]

Hmmm... Part of my motivation for backing up files is that my laptop is getting slow and I assumed it is getting "full". If I dump files to an external drive and delete the files from my laptop should I back up my back-up files somehow?

It's not such much a question of how "full" the drive is (but you do want to keep at least 5 gigabytes of free space at all times, maybe even 10, to be on the safe side. Many programs don't even function anymore if the main drive runs out of space). It's a question of which files are slowing the system down. You could do worse than to try CCleaner (http://www.ccleaner.com/download/downloadpage.aspx), which removes the most obvious culprits without making radical changes to your registry.

Plus, DVDs have a limited shelf life. I backed some videos up to DVD ages ago and am now having issues with them.

Which brand of disc and what speed?

I have to say, DVD backup is getting tiresome because the amount that needs to be backed up is increasing fast. Double Layer DVDs (which hold twice the amount of regular) are still too expensive. I have invested in 500gb external drives instead.

The most important aspect of an external drive, BTW, is what drive they put inside the enclosure (which they never mention on the box, 'natch). Seagate's the best, Maxtor and Hitachi are probably the worst.

As Blair will no doubt point out, ideally you ought to assemble external drives yourself; all you need is a Seagate drive and a dependable enclosure.

[Stellar]

So I'm having trouble with my soundcard (onboard). I've tested it with to speaker sets and headphones, turns out my right side always gets static while the sound on the left is crystal clear. How can I fix this?

[jessecuster3]

So I'm having trouble with my soundcard (onboard). I've tested it with to speaker sets and headphones, turns out my right side always gets static while the sound on the left is crystal clear. How can I fix this?

Buy a new sound card.

[Spike-X]

Sounds like there could be a loose connection somewhere.

Or maybe your sound card is slowly committing suicide so it won't have to play Offspring and Incubus any more.

[Alex L]

Try one of the different connector plugs?

My friend's onboard sound had some funky deal like that -- instead of plugging the speakers into the green female connector (like my sound card) his was the blue or the black one or something like that.

[Stellar]

The black one's for the subwoofer, but mu mobo doesn't have the black. I updated the driver and after a few hours the right speaker kicked in. A friend of mine gave me one of her old soundcards, though, so I'll be installing that one before the mobo starts acting up again.

[Typo Lad]

Every time I fix one thing in this dang iBook, something else goes wrong!

[LtMarvel]

...maybe you should wait for the iMovie instead...

[jessecuster3]

Ok here's a tough one. So, my hard drive died with all of my music on it. I still have my IPod but is there a way to get the music off my IPod onto the new PC?

[Jeff Brady]

Ok here's a tough one. So, my hard drive died with all of my music on it. I still have my IPod but is there a way to get the music off my IPod onto the new PC?

I believe you are fucked.

[Typo Lad]

There are a few thousand ways to do so Jesse. Look for YAMM - Yet NAother Music Manager.

[Jeff Brady]

There are a few thousand ways to do so Jesse. Look for YAMM - Yet NAother Music Manager.

I love Typo's typos.

[Typo Lad]

You're a shameless flirt.

[Jeff Brady]

You're a shameless flirt.

No, I'm pretty ashamed of it.

[Spike-X]

There are a few thousand ways to do so Jesse. Look for YAMM - Yet NAother Music Manager.
Or YamiPod.

Or any of a number of Linux apps.

[Tadhg Adams]

I've almost finished building a silent PC out of old spare parts. I just need to fab a case out of Aluminum to help with heat dissipation since there's no fans; I even removed the PSU fan. Right now, the sound level is about 10dB, the case should dampen the rest of that.

[Spike-X]

No fans? How do you cool it?

[Tadhg Adams]

No fans? How do you cool it?

Passive cooling from the heatsink and later, the case itself will act as a larger heatsink when I finish designing it. I'm using an old compact flash card as a hard drive so there's no motors or moving parts. It's an Athlon XP underclocked to 900 MHz, so the CPU is only drawing about 8 watts of power under load.

[phoenixrising]

There are a few thousand ways to do so Jesse. Look for YAMM - Yet NAother Music Manager.

I'm a big fan of Senuti.

[Typo Lad]

I'm a big fan of Senuti.
me too, but he's not on a mac.

[roguespirit]

I've almost finished building a silent PC out of old spare parts. I just need to fab a case out of Aluminum to help with heat dissipation since there's no fans; I even removed the PSU fan. Right now, the sound level is about 10dB, the case should dampen the rest of that.

Mucho respect. I recently replaced my Northbridge fan with a very sexy heatsink and I'm mow looking to see what else I can do.




damn I called my heatsink sexy...whats happening to me?

[roguespirit]

I'm just going through some old stuff and I found my old Psion 5MX which I'd forgotten I had. Did anyone ever have one of these or in fact still use one. I'm thinking about bringing it back onto operation - just for on the road word processing.

Those things were so stable

[Typo Lad]

EPOC! One of the few handheld OSes I've never touched. neat!

[DrewTheXenocide]

So... yeah. I need mucho helpo right now.

For some reason, my computer refuses to sync the music on the computer to my Creative Zen Micro. I've never, ever, had a problem with synching until now. As a matter of fact, I got a couple of new CDs before I went away a couple weeks ago, and those, after I ripped them onto my compter, synched fine with my Micro, on the same Windows Vista, using the same WMP 11.

Now, though, I get what Windows calls a C00D11D2 error. Apparently, it can't read it when trying to sync, but it can read my music just fine when playing it.

No one's been on my computer since I've been gone, so I don't know why it's acting up. The only thing that I've done that might have affected it was do a couple updates so I used the system restore back before I pretty much did anything since I came back, but it still doesn't work.

And it's not just Windows Media Player 11 either. I tried synching with Creative's own software and it didn't work either.

Ack!

[DrewTheXenocide]

The plot thickens!

While fiddling with the security properties of my music folders, I noticed something weird. I uncheck "Read Only" (which is already checked for some weird reason) under the attributes of a song, an album folder, and/or my entire music folder. Then I check the properties of said song, album folder, and/or entire music folder and "Read Only" is still checked.

The hell is wrong with my computer?

[DrewTheXenocide]

Solved!

I'm such a frickin' assface that it's not even funny. All I had to do was reboot the HD on my player. It actually has nothing to do with my computer. Although the whole "Read Only" thing is still buggin' me, all is well now that I've got my music back.

[Typo Lad]

I did some tech scavanging whilst helping a firend move last night.

Got me a Dell Axim (I'd ironically just gotten rid of one), a Router, a bluetooth headset, a bluetooth PCMCIA/CF card, anna a USB network adapter.

Yay.

[Ronald Bryan]

I did some tech scavanging whilst helping a firend move last night.

Got me a Dell Axim (I'd ironically just gotten rid of one), a Router, a bluetooth headset, a bluetooth PCMCIA/CF card, anna a USB network adapter.

Yay.
You scavanged these from the "moving van" whilst helping him move out of a Best Buy?

[Typo Lad]

Naw. he's a tech stockpiler like me. This is all old stuff.

[Nikita]

Internet security question:

What are the best free or cheap anti-keylogger programs out there. There are different types of keyloggers. I'd like a program that helps prevent and detect all types.

By the way, I can't use Spybot because every time I download it, it messes with my computer for some reason. So I have to keep uninstalling it. I only have this problem with Spybot, nothing else. I wish I didn't, because it's a damn good program but my computer, or programs on it, does not like it for some reason, even though I have a newer computer.

These are the security programs on my computer (all are free versions):

ZoneAlarm firewall
AVG anti-virus

And a ton of anti-spyware (free versions) programs:

Cyber Defender
Ad-Aware
SpywareBlaster
a-squared
SUPERAntiSpyware


Are they good enough? Do they prevent keyloggers too? I honestly can't tell if they help prevent keyloggers. I know they protect against trojans, traces, signatures, dialers, etc. But for keyloggers, I'm really not sure.

Do I need a separate anti-keylogger program too? Are there any free versions of one that's good?

I scan my computer pretty regularly and keep everything up to date including Microsoft updates. I just wonder if the free versions of these programs are enough to keep my computer clean and "safer" from hackers.


I can't afford the pricey paid versions of these. They are too expensive.

[Spike-X]

http://www.ubuntulinux.org/

[gary bolt]

I'm having the strangest problems with my laptop. Last week I got a BSOD (Blue Screen of Death) that appeared so briefly I couldn't read it. The computer shut down and restarted itself. After doing a disk check it appeared normal and then BAM! I got the BSOD again and the process started over. I took it into my service shop and they can't find anything wrong with it. I bring it home and I get BSOD/crash. The problem only occurs here in my apartment. Does this make any fucking sense whatsoever?

The computer has been to the shop three times and they've run it flat out overnight without it shutting down but, like I said, it won't work here. It was suggested that it might be something about the power here (old house) but I get the problem even when I run on batteries. Could a device in my neighbours apartment be causing it?

[Nikita]

I'm looking for a used l laptop. If anyone has one cheap (but in good condition) they want to get rid of, let me know. I don't need anything fancy on it. I just want to use it for writing my stories. The cheaper, the better.

Thanks.

[Jeff Brady]

I'm having the strangest problems with my laptop...

Disclaimer: I don't know anything. BSODs make me crawl into bed, curl up in the fetal position, and suck my thumb.

Are you hooked up to the Internet via wireless? (Probably not the issue.)

Have you gone outside to use it (100 feet or so away from the house), and then walked it back in?

Have you seen it work while at the service shop? (Are they dirty stinking rotten evil liars?)

Can you back up all of your files? (You might have to start from scratch & reinstall your OS.)

[Alex L]

Can you replicate the problem outside of your apartment?

I agree with Jeff -- if you have a consistent problem, and they can't find anything, then either your computer's wonky or they are.

<---- *also quite clueless about BSoD's, unfortunately*

Nikita, I'm not selling a notebook but if you're not too picky, Dell's outlet (http://outlet.dell.com/) has returns, usually stuff with scratches on it or whatnot.

GotApex.com (http://www.gotapex.com/) also has some good deals on brand-new notebooks, sometimes.

[gary bolt]

Disclaimer: I don't know anything. BSODs make me crawl into bed, curl up in the fetal position, and suck my thumb.

Are you hooked up to the Internet via wireless? (Probably not the issue.)

Have you gone outside to use it (100 feet or so away from the house), and then walked it back in?

Have you seen it work while at the service shop? (Are they dirty stinking rotten evil liars?)

Can you back up all of your files? (You might have to start from scratch & reinstall your OS.)

Wireless connection. Since the laptop fucked up we've also had our wireless router go on the fritz. Which isn't that big of a deal because we can't use the laptop anyway. Our Internet provider is sending us a new DSL modem/router so maybe that will solve it all.

I thought of the dirty evil liar thing too and turned on the laptop when I was at the service place yesterday morning. It worked fine. The first time I took the laptop in they backed up the data and re-installed the OS. There really is nothing wrong with it when it's not here in my apartment.

[gary bolt]

Can you replicate the problem outside of your apartment?

I agree with Jeff -- if you have a consistent problem, and they can't find anything, then either your computer's wonky or they are.

<---- *also quite clueless about BSoD's, unfortunately*

The laptop only misbehaves here. We are going to pay for an on-site visit from a tech geek next week.

[Jeff Brady]

I thought of the dirty evil liar thing too and turned on the laptop when I was at the service place yesterday morning. It worked fine. The first time I took the laptop in they backed up the data and re-installed the OS. There really is nothing wrong with it when it's not here in my apartment.

The laptop only misbehaves here. We are going to pay for an on-site visit from a tech geek next week.

It sounds very much like a hardware issue. Maybe it is the wireless thingy.

[gary bolt]

It sounds very much like a hardware issue. Maybe it is the wireless thingy.

I'm really hoping that it's not a hardware issue because my brand (Acer) isn't supported in town anymore and I will have to send it across the country for service and pay a flat rate of $450.00. The store that sold me the computer was part of a national chain and was authorized to service Acer but they've since left the chain and Acer thinks they are too small to bother with. I figure that the damn thing will perform fine for the Acer people too and they'll just send it back with the same problem.

[Tadhg Adams]

Unplug the power from your wireless router and see if your machine blue screens then. Also see if you can get the last few dump files from c:\windows\minidump\ and upload them to http://www.zacksdomain.com/?page=tools&t=bugcheck so you can read them in human readable format without having to install any debugging tools.

[Spike-X]

There really is nothing wrong with it when it's not here in my apartment.

You're just gonna have to move, then!

[gary bolt]

Unplug the power from your wireless router and see if your machine blue screens then. Also see if you can get the last few dump files from c:\windows\minidump\ and upload them to http://www.zacksdomain.com/?page=tools&t=bugcheck so you can read them in human readable format without having to install any debugging tools.

It does it with the wireless router completely remove from our set up. Thanks for the link. I'll try that.

You're just gonna have to move, then!

It might come to that.

[howyadoin]

So here's (http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebObjects/canadastore.woa/91234005/wo/0C3GlkHHTv2236ZuG8r1FRN5mDz/3.?p=0) what I'm thinkin' about.

With the 4-gig kit from Crucial (http://crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=iMac%202.4GHz%20Intel%20Core% 202%20Duo%20%2824-inch%29).

[Stellar]

4 GB worth of memory is kinda overkill, don't you think?

[howyadoin]

4 GB worth of memory is kinda overkill, don't you think?This does not compute.

[thespianphryne]

This does not compute.
Perhaps you need more memory.


-Das

[Tadhg Adams]

So here's (http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebObjects/canadastore.woa/91234005/wo/0C3GlkHHTv2236ZuG8r1FRN5mDz/3.?p=0) what I'm thinkin' about.

With the 4-gig kit from Crucial (http://crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=iMac%202.4GHz%20Intel%20Core% 202%20Duo%20%2824-inch%29).

I might look at other places for the RAM. I'm pretty sure OWC (http://www.macsales.com/) still guarantees their RAM to work with your Mac. Probably be a lot cheaper.

4 gig is good. That's pretty much the machine I asked work for yesterday.

[gary bolt]

My laptop still works everywhere except in my own home. It's maddening.

[Typo Lad]

That looks awesome. Great upgrade from your G5.

[macul]

I'm having the strangest problems with my laptop. Last week I got a BSOD (Blue Screen of Death) that appeared so briefly I couldn't read it. The computer shut down and restarted itself. After doing a disk check it appeared normal and then BAM! I got the BSOD again and the process started over. I took it into my service shop and they can't find anything wrong with it. I bring it home and I get BSOD/crash. The problem only occurs here in my apartment. Does this make any fucking sense whatsoever?

The computer has been to the shop three times and they've run it flat out overnight without it shutting down but, like I said, it won't work here. It was suggested that it might be something about the power here (old house) but I get the problem even when I run on batteries. Could a device in my neighbours apartment be causing it?

Not sure if you are still dealing with this, and this solution might be more than you want to get in to, but you can do a dump of the crash and then open it with Microsoft's debugger utility. That will usually tell you the offending driver.

[howyadoin]

I might look at other places for the RAM. I'm pretty sure OWC (http://www.macsales.com/) still guarantees their RAM to work with your Mac. Probably be a lot cheaper.Nice. I thought the Crucial deal was good, since it saved me $600. But this is even better. Thanks.

4 gig is good. That's pretty much the machine I asked work for yesterday.Plus, Creative Suite 3 is a pig on anything with less than 3 gigs.

That looks awesome. Great upgrade from your G5.Definitely. Think I'll relegate the existing computer to watching movies and listening to tunes in the bedroom.

How tricky do ya suppose it would be to network the two?

It was suggested that it might be something about the power here (old house) but I get the problem even when I run on batteries.I was definitely gonna suggest brownouts in your building, but the battery thing has me stumped.

[Nikita]

Can you replicate the problem outside of your apartment?

I agree with Jeff -- if you have a consistent problem, and they can't find anything, then either your computer's wonky or they are.

<---- *also quite clueless about BSoD's, unfortunately*

Nikita, I'm not selling a notebook but if you're not too picky, Dell's outlet (http://outlet.dell.com/) has returns, usually stuff with scratches on it or whatnot.

GotApex.com (http://www.gotapex.com/) also has some good deals on brand-new notebooks, sometimes.


Thanks for the link Alex L. Much appreciated.

[macul]

Analyzing BSODs:

http://www.dumpanalysis.org/blog/index.php/2006/10/09/dumps-for-dummies-part-1/

[thehod]

Vista is beginning to get on my tits, and I think its to do with Directx issues more than anything else.

Rome Total War tells me it needs directx 9, when i've got directx 10 installed, and now Freedom Force is giving me an "Alert init renderer" message. I know they are old games, but if I can get Xcom to run, these shoud be posing too much of problem.

The funny thing is that both these games were working fine until yesterday, when the only new thing that happend was a windows update.

Any ideas, or am i just going to have to wait until Vista and Directx properly do what they promise that they can do?

[Stellar]

A lot of people have had issues with Windows Vista Updates. Check their website to see if they're releasing an update to fix the problem any time soon. I'd recommend not updating your Windows till then.

[gary bolt]

Not sure if you are still dealing with this, and this solution might be more than you want to get in to, but you can do a dump of the crash and then open it with Microsoft's debugger utility. That will usually tell you the offending driver.

That's all beyond old man Gary but I'm paying a tech to come to my home today so I'll run that by him.

I was definitely gonna suggest brownouts in your building, but the battery thing has me stumped.

I took it up island last week and used it plenty with no problems. Five minutes at home and it shut down again. Hopefully I'll get answers today.

[gary bolt]

The tech guy just spent an hour on our laptop and the damn thing didn't crash. It's fucking voodoo that's causing the problems.

[howyadoin]

The tech guy just spent an hour on our laptop and the damn thing didn't crash. It's fucking voodoo that's causing the problems.Just get the guy to move in.

[Gilda Dent]

This does not compute.

I must agree with howy here. Four gigs can make a difference in some high end applications.

[howyadoin]

I must agree with howy here. Four gigs can make a difference in some high end applications.In my line of work, Adobe Illustrator seems to me the biggest memory hog. Every bit of extra oomph I can get makes a difference.

[gary bolt]

Just get the guy to move in.

I'll talk it over with Morna but he's a little old for me.

[Serik]

Four gigs can make a difference in some high end applications.

Yeah, it also (barely) meets Vista's minimum requirements :D

[Gilda Dent]

In my line of work, Adobe Illustrator seems to me the biggest memory hog. Every bit of extra oomph I can get makes a difference.

Emily runs some kind of 3d image rendering software that was bogging down with only two gigs.

[Stellar]

Emily runs some kind of 3d image rendering software that was bogging down with only two gigs.

Is it Maya? That one's been known to eat up a lot memory. They recommend 512 MB but it takes ages to finish a process, especially when it comes to rendering.

[Serik]

Video rendering can take hours for just a few frames, depending on lighting effects, etc. In my graphics design course, we would take turn rendering our projects over the network, as to harness the combined power of 40 PCs.

[macul]

The tech guy just spent an hour on our laptop and the damn thing didn't crash. It's fucking voodoo that's causing the problems.

Configure the machine to do a complete memory dump. You can then give that memory dump to the technician. They should be able to use that to determine what driver is causing the problem.

[gary bolt]

Four weeks later and the computer finally works in the house again. I think the tech said that he replaced the wireless driver. I'm glad it worked because that was the fifth service attempt and if it didn't work we were probably going to end up buying a new laptop.

[thespianphryne]

Typo, Tadhg or other Mac people around,
What I have here is a PowerBook G4 with a Matshita DVD-ROM SR 8187. Is it true that I cannot burn CDs with this effin' machine?


-Das

[Tadhg Adams]

Typo, Tadhg or other Mac people around,
What I have here is a PowerBook G4 with a Matshita DVD-ROM SR 8187. Is it true that I cannot burn CDs with this effin' machine?


-Das

Sorry, nope. It's just a DVD-ROM Drive, no burning capability at all.

[thespianphryne]

Sorry, nope. It's just a DVD-ROM Drive, no burning capability at all.

Thanks. This thing must be old as laptops go, then.


-Das

[jessecuster3]

Thanks. This thing muct be old as laptops go, then.


-Das

You could get an external burner for relatively cheap these days.

[Lance]

I need some help.

I'm using a ethernet switch to connect 2 computers to the same cable modem.

Comp #1: Windows 98, connect works great.

Comp #2: Windows XP, can't connect.

It's not the wiring. Just replaced and tested that. All working.

I'm not familiar with XP. What can I try to get the 2nd computer to recognize the connection?

[Tadhg Adams]

Are you plugging directly into the Cable Modem, using a switch, or do you have a router?

Edit: Missed the Switch. Most likely scenario is that your Cable Modem service does not allow multiple machines like that, If that's the case, you'll need a small consumer router.

[Lance]

http://www.netgear.com/Products/Switches/DesktopSwitches/FS605.aspx

This is what I'm using at the moment. Does a switch like this only allow the computers to use the connection at a time?

[Tadhg Adams]

http://www.netgear.com/Products/Switches/DesktopSwitches/FS605.aspx

This is what I'm using at the moment. Does a switch like this only allow the computers to use the connection at a time?

It's not that the switch only allows one at a time, It's that when using the switch each computer has to get its IP address from the Cable Modem. Many Cable companies do not allow multiple devices to get IPs without an extra fee, the easiest way around that is to get a router like this http://www.netgear.com/Products/RoutersandGateways/WiredRouters/RP614.aspx

Basically, with a router, the router gets the IP from the Cable modem and then shares the single connection with all the devices on the router.

Sorry, I'm terrible at lay-speak.

[Lance]

Now I get it. It's only ten dollars more than the switch.

Thanks a lot.

[gary bolt]

Our poor laptop is working fine for the most part but now one of the hinges is broken. The plastic around the hinge is cracked and the metal pops out whenever I open and close it. I'm coping by leaving it open at home but I still need to open and close it for travel. Any low-tech suggestions or do-it-yourself repair links? I thought maybe I could glue a strip of thick plastic across the affected area but I'm not sure what kind of glue to use or where to get a plastic strip for the job.

[Jeff Brady]

Here's a brain teaser. My DVD/CD-Rom drives won't read any Windows information on a CD, but it will read the Mac info. For example, I wanted to install the drivers and programs that came with my new camera. The .dmg files could be read, but any .exe files would not show up.

They will still read the Quake 4 disc just fine, though.

[Jeff Brady]

Here's a brain teaser. My DVD/CD-Rom drives won't read any Windows information on a CD, but it will read the Mac info. For example, I wanted to install the drivers and programs that came with my new camera. The .dmg files could be read, but any .exe files would not show up.

They will still read the Quake 4 disc just fine, though.

Woo, I figured it out! I had to change some settings in MacDrive. I'm a silly boy.

[Nikita]

Ok, another computer question. How do you get rid of something you thought you un-installed, but bits and pieces of it keep showing up in other places?

It was my brother's fault by the way. He downloaded Cyber Defender but we already had AVG. Two anti-virus programs running at the same time can start interacting with each other and causing problems.

Sure enough, Cyber Defender somehow got corrupted. He thought he'd gotten rid of it by going into Add/Remove Programs but it keeps showing up in our firewall. So obviously, bits of it are still in our computer somewhere. How do we get rid of those pieces? And how do we find them all?

Is there another program I should download to "clean" our computer? I also thought about getting rid of AVG and reinstalling it again just to make sure it's ok. So far it seems to be running ok even though Cyber Defender got corrupted somehow.


Thanks in advance.

[Jeff Brady]

Re-install CyberDefender, then uninstall it. This time, don't use the Add/Remove Programs. CD should have its own uninstaller, where it asks you if you want to repair or remove the program.

If the problem persists, don't worry about it. It's a minor conflict, and won't do any harm.

If it bothers you a great deal, back up your files & reformat the computer.

[Nikita]

Re-install CyberDefender, then uninstall it. This time, don't use the Add/Remove Programs. CD should have its own uninstaller, where it asks you if you want to repair or remove the program.

If the problem persists, don't worry about it. It's a minor conflict, and won't do any harm.

If it bothers you a great deal, back up your files & reformat the computer.


Actually, we went online and did some research about Cyber Defender. Turns out it's got some problems and it's not really something we want on our computer. It gives false positives. And it tends to be "glitchy". Obviously, I wish my brother had researched this, before he installed it the first time...

We just install programs from the internet directly. We never buy disks. (is that a bad idea?) We download from safe sites though like download.com, etc.

Um, another dumb question for the computer illiterate...how do I back up my files and reformat? (backing up means saving stuff to a disk I assume) I have no idea how to reformat my computer. I know, I know. I'm pathetic. :o

[Nikita]

P.S. Thanks for the info Jeff. :)

[Jeff Brady]

The not-buying-disks thing isn't a problem. But installing directly from the web instead of downloading the file is a small one. It's usually a package of files that you might need later on.

As for backing up and reformatting: burn all your files onto CDs/DVDs (you got that one right), and reinstall Windows, wiping everything out and starting from scratch.

Any time.

[Spike-X]

As for backing up and reformatting: burn all your files onto CDs/DVDs (you got that one right), and install Linux, wiping Windows out and starting from scratch.


Fixed it for ya!

[Serik]

Ok, another computer question. How do you get rid of something you thought you un-installed, but bits and pieces of it keep showing up in other places?

That's one of my biggest peeves with Windows: files are haphazardly installed over the place, making them extremely difficult to find and remove if the provided uninstaller doesn't do it for you. If there's some magic, surefire way to completely remove programs, I'd really like to know. As it is, I use a combination of CCleaner, some other cleaner, and old-fashioned registry trolling.

The simplest solution, however, is to avoid the problem in the first place: only use programs with "honest" uninstallers that remove all files, registry entries, etc. But even that might not be enough, given the very nature of Windows.

[Alex L]

As for backing up and reformatting: burn all your files onto CDs/DVDs (you got that one right), and reinstall Windows, wiping everything out and starting from scratch.

Any time.

Depending on how many files you've got, it may be more worth your while to buy an external hard drive you can hook into your computer, transfer all your stuff to it, and then reformat.

[Nikita]

The not-buying-disks thing isn't a problem. But installing directly from the web instead of downloading the file is a small one. It's usually a package of files that you might need later on.

As for backing up and reformatting: burn all your files onto CDs/DVDs (you got that one right), and reinstall Windows, wiping everything out and starting from scratch.

Any time.


I think I'm going to have to ask a friend for help with this. I'm not sure how to do that. You'd think with all the years I've been on a computer, I would have learned these things by now.

That's one of my biggest peeves with Windows: files are haphazardly installed over the place, making them extremely difficult to find and remove if the provided uninstaller doesn't do it for you. If there's some magic, surefire way to completely remove programs, I'd really like to know. As it is, I use a combination of CCleaner, some other cleaner, and old-fashioned registry trolling.

The simplest solution, however, is to avoid the problem in the first place: only use programs with "honest" uninstallers that remove all files, registry entries, etc. But even that might not be enough, given the very nature of Windows.

I agree. We had the same problem when we tried to un-install McAfee. Still have McAfee files showing up here and there but can't find all of them. I'll check out that CCleaner. Thanks for the advice.


Depending on how many files you've got, it may be more worth your while to buy an external hard drive you can hook into your computer, transfer all your stuff to it, and then reformat.


Hmmm...that's a good idea. But another thing I'll have to ask help with. Apparently, I'm still quite computer illiterate.




Thanks for all the advice guys. Much appreciated.

[Jeff Brady]

I think I'm going to have to ask a friend for help with this. I'm not sure how to do that. You'd think with all the years I've been on a computer, I would have learned these things by now.

Insert Windows disk. Install Windows. Badda-boom, badda-bing.

[Nikita]

Insert Windows disk. Install Windows. Badda-boom, badda-bing.



It's the wiping out part that I'm not sure about.



One more quick question. Defragging our computer....would that be helpful? I think my brother knows how to do that.

[Jeff Brady]

It's the wiping out part that I'm not sure about.

Re-installing Windows will wipe everything out automatically.

One more quick question. Defragging our computer....would that be helpful? I think my brother knows how to do that.

Defragging is a very very very good thing no matter what, but it may not help out for this problem you are having.

[Nikita]

Re-installing Windows will wipe everything out automatically.



Defragging is a very very very good thing no matter what, but it may not help out for this problem you are having.



Really? I didn't know that about re-installing Windows. Good to know.


I'll ask my bro if he wants to defrag just for the hell of it. Can't hurt.



Thanks Jeffrey! *hugs* :)

[Spike-X]

Yeah, best to defrag every month or so.

[Nikita]

Ok, I just noticed something new in my AVG anti-virus scan. Under the Result/Infection column, it's listing that these have been "changed"...

kernel32.dll

shell32.dll


Is that bad? And how do I find out what's been changed with those files? (or who's changing them?)


I'm scared now. :(

[Spike-X]

Ok, I just noticed something new in my AVG anti-virus scan. Under the Result/Infection column, it's listing that these have been "changed"...

kernel32.dll

shell32.dll


Is that bad?

Yes.



10

[Nikita]

Yes.



10




You're not very helpful mister Linux snob guy! lol.

[Alex L]

One more quick question. Defragging our computer....would that be helpful? I think my brother knows how to do that.
I'll ask my bro if he wants to defrag just for the hell of it. Can't hurt.
To answer that question properly, I'd want to explain what defragging is.

Think of your hard drive as a series of thousands of cubby holes.

http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/1073904/2/istockphoto_1073904_mail_room.jpg

As you begin with a fresh hard drive, you fill it up from left to right, top to bottom with pictures, papers, music, what have you in the order you recieve them. Some will fit in one, some will spill over into two or three cubbies.

But what happens when you get rid of them? You'll have a space here, a space there, and now you get this new encyclopedia. Fit volume A in this spot in the upper right, and B a couple of rows down, C-D-E in three adjoining slots, etc. etc.

Defragging (or defragmenting) is completely reorganizing the cubbies. Pull everything out, sort them, and put them back in order so the encyclopedia will be all in one spot instead of bits and pieces everywhere.

But if you're planning to reformat, it's a moot point as you'll be refilling everything in the proper order anyway.

Or, put a different way (perhaps more appropriate for this forum), think of new comics week. Every week, you toss your new comics in a box because it's easier that way. But it's not in any real order -- simply whatever you got first is at the back, and whatever you got last is in the front.

Sorting it by name/issue number (defragging) will make things significantly faster when you go back to re-read things.

[Tadhg Adams]

All right kiddies, I have a question.

I have about 100 Excel documents that I need to merge onto a single sheet. Easiest way for me to do this is how?

[Nikita]

To answer that question properly, I'd want to explain what defragging is.

Think of your hard drive as a series of thousands of cubby holes.

http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/1073904/2/istockphoto_1073904_mail_room.jpg

As you begin with a fresh hard drive, you fill it up from left to right, top to bottom with pictures, papers, music, what have you in the order you recieve them. Some will fit in one, some will spill over into two or three cubbies.

But what happens when you get rid of them? You'll have a space here, a space there, and now you get this new encyclopedia. Fit volume A in this spot in the upper right, and B a couple of rows down, C-D-E in three adjoining slots, etc. etc.

Defragging (or defragmenting) is completely reorganizing the cubbies. Pull everything out, sort them, and put them back in order so the encyclopedia will be all in one spot instead of bits and pieces everywhere.

But if you're planning to reformat, it's a moot point as you'll be refilling everything in the proper order anyway.

Or, put a different way (perhaps more appropriate for this forum), think of new comics week. Every week, you toss your new comics in a box because it's easier that way. But it's not in any real order -- simply whatever you got first is at the back, and whatever you got last is in the front.

Sorting it by name/issue number (defragging) will make things significantly faster when you go back to re-read things.




That was very helpful. Thank you for the great description.


However, I just learned about a type of spyware called rootkits, so now I'm really worried. If something like that is what's slowing our computer down, we're screwed.

Guess reformatting might be my only option of the glitches keep getting worse.

[Spike-X]

Guess reformatting might be my only option of the glitches keep getting worse.

It's really not that scary.

If you like, I could even talk you through partitioning your HD as you go, so you can have a separate partition for all the stuff you want to keep, for when (not if) this happens again.

[Nikita]

It's really not that scary.

If you like, I could even talk you through partitioning your HD as you go, so you can have a separate partition for all the stuff you want to keep, for when (not if) this happens again.


That's very kind of you. I have a local computer friend that I want to talk to first. He comes over sometimes and helps us with computer issues. I was hoping I could fix this problem myself, but I think I'll need his help again this time.

(thank you though Spikey. I'll keep it in mind)

[Spike-X]

A tourist ship named the M/S Explorer has crashed in the Antarctic (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/7108835.stm).

You'd think they would have seen that coming.

[Buried Alien]

A few days ago, I purchased my first portable MP3/Media Player after years of holding out with my old cassette Walkman (yeah, I know...I'm old). Overall, I'm pretty happy with it, but there's one issue I need to get resolved...

I usually charge the player through my PC, which is what is supposed to be done, after all. No problem there. When I charge the player through the PC, the player, though technically "off," comes on to indicate that it's charging. A little energy bar, which is red when the player has no power and green when the player is charged up, alternates between red and green while charging. When the player is fully charged, the bar becomes solid green. Hunky dory.

I don't always lug my computer around, however, so I bought a USB adapter to charge my player when I'm on the go without my computer. When I plug the player into the USB charger, though, the player comes on...as if to play (and it is playable at this point, unlike when it's charging through my PC, where it remains off until I disconnect the player from the PC). The energy bar appears, but is stuck on red, never turning green.

So is the charger actually charging the player's battery, or just using the house current to power the player while it's plugged in? I want it to charge the battery, not power the player while plugged in.

Buried Alien (The Fastest Post Alive!)

[Jeff Brady]

A few days ago, I purchased my first portable MP3/Media Player...

What brand & model is it? What adapter did you get for it?

[Buried Alien]

What brand & model is it? What adapter did you get for it?

The player is a Memorex MMP8640. The adapter was manufactured by a company called Griffin.

Buried Alien (The Fastest Post Alive!)

[Jeff Brady]

Sweet Jebus. I can't find good reviews of the mp3 player.

As for the charger (is this (http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-PowerDuo-Charging-Sansa-Player/dp/B000IMYAVU/ref=pd_bbs_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1196651642&sr=8-2) the one you have?), I can't find anyone having that problem. The best way to tell is to drain the battery, plug it in to charge it for a while (4 hours should do), and unplug it to see if it works. Trial and error, unfortunately.

[Buried Alien]

Sweet Jebus. I can't find good reviews of the mp3 player.

As for the charger (is this (http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-PowerDuo-Charging-Sansa-Player/dp/B000IMYAVU/ref=pd_bbs_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1196651642&sr=8-2) the one you have?), I can't find anyone having that problem. The best way to tell is to drain the battery, plug it in to charge it for a while (4 hours should do), and unplug it to see if it works. Trial and error, unfortunately.

That's the charger all right.

I guess I'll just have to try what you suggested. I've also contacted Memorex tech support to see what they can tell me. Thanks.

It would really suck if the player is PC-dependent for charging. Why would anybody design a player like that?

Buried Alien (The Fastest Post Alive!)

[Jeff Brady]

Why would anybody design a player like that?

Because they're idiots. I don't trust Memorex to make decent CD-Rs or DVD-Rs. I sure as fuck wouldn't trust them to make a good mp3 player.

If you decide to return it, try iRiver, Creative Labs, Samsung, Sony, or Apple.

[Dom]

I am looking to buy a completely useless, but feature loaded PDA.

I was looking at the Palm LifeDrive, but I can't seem to find it at Futureshop.ca

I have therefore switched to a Ipod Touch.

Anyone have a ridiculously expensive PDA that they like, I need opinions.

[Typo Lad]

iTouch is not a PDA. You cannot edit word doduments or cut and paste.

I freaking love my Palm Treo.

[Tadhg Adams]

I am looking to buy a completely useless, but feature loaded PDA.

I was looking at the Palm LifeDrive, but I can't seem to find it at Futureshop.ca

I have therefore switched to a Ipod Touch.

Anyone have a ridiculously expensive PDA that they like, I need opinions.

The biggest problem is the PDA is dying due to the Smart Phone.

[Dom]

The biggest problem is the PDA is dying due to the Smart Phone.

I was also thinking that.

There are some freaking cool phones available as well.

[Buried Alien]

OK. I've returned my Memorex MP3 player because while I liked most things about it (reasonable price, lots of memory, long-lasting battery), it had one fatal flaw: it could only be recharged by plugging it into a computer. There was no adapter I could buy that would allow it to be charged by plugging directly into the wall. The charger would fit, but the battery just wouldn't charge. Memorex tech support told me it was just designed that way...to charge via computer only. That makes it kind of useless to me because I sometimes need to take it where I won't have computer access for days at a time.

So I tried the Zune. This one can be recharged through the wall via its own special adapter, but it sucks in every other way. The sync program for uploading MP3s from my computer into the player is retarded and impossible to use. Also, although advertised at 4GB like the Memorex player, it holds less than the Memorex did. The Memorex was able to hold all my music with room (just a little) to spare. The Zune couldn't.

Next up is the iPod Nano. It's supposed to be the be-all, end-all MP3 player, right? Will it do what I want it to do, namely:

1. Fit around 1,127 songs (they're only 3.5 GB on the hard disk of my computer, and the Memorex could hold them, but the Zune couldn't).

2. Be user-friendly and easy to upload MP3s onto (like the Memorex, but unlike the Zune).

3. Be rechargeable through the wall if necessary (like the Zune, but unlike the Memorex...actually, I know the iPod can do this, so at least there's that I can be sure of).

4. Cost $200 or less.

Is iPod the way to go? Or is there another MP3 player out there that can meet all these requirements?

Buried Alien (The Fastest Post Alive!)

[Buried Alien]

One additional question, making a fifth requirement:

Can I upload to the iPod my playlists from Winamp 5.5? I was able to do that with the Memorex quite conveniently, but the Zune wouldn't do it.

The Zune is a pretty useless piece of crap, isn't it? I mean, the Memorex worked *way* better except for the fact that it could only recharge via computer.

Buried Alien (The Fastest Post Alive!)

[Buried Alien]

And a sixth requirement:

Will the iPod upload any MP3 file that I can store on my computer and play through Winamp? The Memorex did. It played everything. The Zune didn't. Something about copyright law protection (you know: it's Bill Gates).

Buried Alien (The Fastest Post Alive!)

[Spike-X]

Will the iPod upload any MP3 file that I can store on my computer and play through Winamp?

Yes.





.

[Typo Lad]

BA - Price some iRiver players before you grab a Nano. They tend to be cheaper and have more features.

[jessecuster3]

BA - Price some iRiver players before you grab a Nano. They tend to be cheaper and have more features.

but the new Ipod Nano/Mini/whatever the hell they call it, is tiny and yet still supports video.


Plus ITunes, dude, ITunes.



BA, you can put any mp3 onto your IPod, also, if you have other formats, such as WMA it can covert them for you. ITunes is really easy, you just drag and drop onto your IPod.


In addition, you will find the greatest breadth of accessories for the IPod products.

[Typo Lad]

but the new Ipod Nano/Mini/whatever the hell they call it, is tiny and yet still supports video.

iRiver and Creative both make comparable video/audio players.

Then there's the Meizu (http://www.walgreens.com/store/product.jsp?CATID=304539&navAction=jump&navCount=0&skuid=sku2853941&id=prod2855107), which geeky sorts like. If not for the fact my Treo can play all the formats, I would most likely own this PMP.

Plus ITunes, dude, ITunes.

Eh. I like it, but I know many who hate it.

BA, you can put any mp3 onto your IPod, also, if you have other formats, such as WMA it can covert them for you. ITunes is really easy, you just drag and drop onto your IPod.

Just be sure to set it to convert CDs and WMAs to MP3, not AAC. Why? Because not all players play AAC,

In addition, you will find the greatest breadth of accessories for the IPod products.

You'll also find the battery is not user-serviceable.

[jessecuster3]

Just be sure to set it to convert CDs and WMAs to MP3, not AAC. Why? Because not all players play AAC,



You'll also find the battery is not user-serviceable.


Oh yeah, that's always the first step, to set everything to MP3.



As far as batteries I am on my 3rd IPod and never have I had battery problems, just saying. I would be surprised if the newer ones batteries dying was a significant number at all, its not really a worry.

[Typo Lad]

Lucky. I have more than a few friends who ran into battery issues. Mostly with 3rd gen though, so maybe you're right and it's better now.

[Serik]

Ok, I have a Windows box with 12 GB of video files I need to burn to DVD so they can be viewed on any standard DVD player.

Does anyone know of a (free) program that can mass-convert these 12 GB of videos into a filetype that is a.) decodable on all DVD players b.) finds a balance between quality and disk space? I'd prefer to convert the files beforehand so I can burn and go. As I understand it, transferring between video formats takes the most time.

Also, what's the best program to author the DVDs? Each episode needs to be its own chapter; fancy title screens are optional but not required.

I'm a total newb when it comes to this because I rarely watch TVs or DVDs. And when I do, it's always on my PC using VLC player so I don't worry about codecs or video files. This is actually the first time I've had to burn anything to DVD other than system backups...

Thanks guys.

[Alex L]

I don't know how, but I do know of a site with tutorial guides.

http://www.videohelp.com/author

Best of luck!

[jessecuster3]

here is a question, I am using Firefox, of course, and I want to log into multiple Gmail accounts at the same time, anyone know how to do this?

[SOGG]

here is a question, I am using Firefox, of course, and I want to log into multiple Gmail accounts at the same time, anyone know how to do this?

I don't think this is possible because of the way browsers handle cookies. I mean, you can still open several windows and log on to different accounts, but you'd need to retype the passwords for each everytime you refreshed.

However! Gmail has both POP and IMAP. So you can just configure those for multiple mail accounts if you're using a mail client. (Like outlook or eudora.)

[Drew Van T.]

Ok, I have a Windows box with 12 GB of video files I need to burn to DVD so they can be viewed on any standard DVD player.

Does anyone know of a (free) program that can mass-convert these 12 GB of videos into a filetype that is a.) decodable on all DVD players b.) finds a balance between quality and disk space? I'd prefer to convert the files beforehand so I can burn and go. As I understand it, transferring between video formats takes the most time.

Also, what's the best program to author the DVDs? Each episode needs to be its own chapter; fancy title screens are optional but not required.

I'm a total newb when it comes to this because I rarely watch TVs or DVDs. And when I do, it's always on my PC using VLC player so I don't worry about codecs or video files. This is actually the first time I've had to burn anything to DVD other than system backups...

Thanks guys.

Do you have Nero (the CD/DVD burning program) installed somewhere? If it came preinstalled with a laptop or PC, chances are that it's a relatively "full" Nero package and that includes Nero Vision. Even if it doesn't include Nero Vision, you can download it from their website.

Nero Vision is a very user-friendly program that lets you create a full DVD, with its own made-for-TV menu (with chapters and everything), from just about any video file. It's a simple step-by-step wizard, and then it does all the converting and DVD burning for you.

In the options, you can lower the quality setting to fit more material on a single DVD.

[Buried Alien]

Question about iPod battery lifespans:

Is it better, in general, for the long-term life of the battery to charge it as often as possible, or only when necessary?

Buried Alien (The Fastest Post Alive!)

[Typo Lad]

Question about iPod battery lifespans:

Is it better, in general, for the long-term life of the battery to charge it as often as possible, or only when necessary?

Buried Alien (The Fastest Post Alive!)
I've heard different opinions. I like to let mine drain down.

[Drew Van T.]

Lots of opinions abound. Last one I heard is that current batteries' ideal state is 70% charge, and that this threshold should be approximated as often as possible. And don't let it drain to zero.

But I think it's much more important to make active use of an iPod's own energy-saving features. Turn off the backlight whenever possible (you only really need it in the dark, or if you have weak eyes).

[SOGG]

It really was the best notebook I've ever owned. It died protecting me.

And really, I would have preferred to replace it with another powerbook.

However, no powerbooks are available, and so I went into triage mode and came up with the following choices:

1.) The Macbook. I would have preferred the macbook pro specs, but I find the macbook pro to be too large. I like that it's 2.2ghz, intel GX3100 and up to 4GB. It's almost desktoplike. The config I want will cost 1,222.00. I get the academic discount, so it'll chop off some off off that. (goes down to around 1020) I also like that the Macbook uses recycled materials and is almost entirely recyclable. The screen is almost entirely lead free too. I don't like that the keyboard is non removable and that swapping out the HDD voids warranty. I don't like that it's not using the penryn processor. I also hate the people who work at Apple stores here in Seattle, as they seem to not know anything about the products.

2.) The Panasaonic toughbook Y7 -- $2150. And I'm not sure that it will survive the incident that killed my powerbook. It claims that it can be dropped from 3 feet. It also has a shock mounted hard drive. On the downside, the proc's 1.06ghz, the FSB is 500mhz and it looks a bit... ugly.

3.) The Asus W7S -- $1414. Comparable specs to the macbook, only without OSX. It's more expensive than the Macbook, and Asus doesn't have discounts for academia. However, it does have a better video card and better battery life. It's also lighter.

4.) The Lenovo ThinkPad X61 -- 200MHZ slower clock cycle than the similarly intel-equipped Macbook. Everything else -- 965 chipset, X3100 graphics, etc. -- is the same. The main difference here is the bells and whistles that Mac puts into their products. (illuminated keyboard, etc.) $1269 gets me this one.

It really seems like the Macbook is the best one. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Mainly, I use it for lots of onsite CAD and I travel a fair bit. (This is why the Macbook Air is not in consideration -- because it lacks both an optical drive and an ethernet port. Having extra pieces seems bass-ackwards for an ultraportable.)

Thoughts?

[Tadhg Adams]

I don't like that the keyboard is non removable and that swapping out the HDD voids warranty. I don't like that it's not using the penryn processor. I also hate the people who work at Apple stores here in Seattle, as they seem to not know anything about the products.


Replacing the Hard drive does not void the warranty on the Macbook, Apple has a DIY manual on how to do it

[SOGG]

Replacing the Hard drive does not void the warranty on the Macbook, Apple has a DIY manual on how to do it

Ah. Interesting. Another plus.

[SOGG]

If you guys know of anywhere I can get a 1.5ghz powerbook, that'd be aces, since I hate the fact that all new systems have a TPM chip.

[Tadhg Adams]

They keyboard on the Macbook is very different if you haven't used one. A lot of people love them but some absolutely despise the keyboard.

I'd also recommend buying ram from Other World Computing (http://www.macsales.com/). They guarantee it to work with your Mac(Since they can be finicky about timings and latency) and it's much cheaper. 4 gig of RAM for a MacBook runs 92.50.

[Typo Lad]

The MacBook seems to have the most bang for your buck of those choices. If you don't like the Apple Stores near you AND want to save a little more, Apple.com has a deals section that has refurbs. Better Quality Control and the same warante, for less than the Academic discount sometimes.

[SOGG]

They keyboard on the Macbook is very different if you haven't used one. A lot of people love them but some absolutely despise the keyboard.

I'd also recommend buying ram from Other World Computing (http://www.macsales.com/). They guarantee it to work with your Mac(Since they can be finicky about timings and latency) and it's much cheaper. 4 gig of RAM for a MacBook runs 92.50.

Yeah, I saw the keyboard. Looks a little like an old WP. It might be funky for awhile, but i actually like the fact that the keys are a little further apart.

It's also a bit strange that they changed expose from the simple f9-f10 to a 'just f9-as f3'. Maybe I can get them to put Tiger on instead of Leopard. Or maybe there's a way to make expose behave like Tiger on Leopard.

So you reckon the Macbook's a winner as well?

[SOGG]

The MacBook seems to have the most bang for your buck of those choices. If you don't like the Apple Stores near you AND want to save a little more, Apple.com has a deals section that has refurbs. Better Quality Control and the same warante, for less than the Academic discount sometimes.

Yeah, someone was also talking about macmall.com. AND both of those choices have free 24hr shipping.

That memory link that Tadgh sent is going to save quite a bit. I wonder if I can order it sans-RAM...

[Typo Lad]

Crucial may even be cheaper than OWC. Crucial.com. Check it out.

[Slappy san]

SOGG, I'd suggest something from HP. I have a dv6500t and a dv8000z.


I'll be either fixing or replacing the dv800z with a 14.1'' model at some point soon.

I've considered a Mac but the price premium is just not worth it.

[SOGG]

SOGG, I'd suggest something from HP. I have a dv6500t and a dv8000z.


I'll be either fixing or replacing the dv800z with a 14.1'' model at some point soon.

I've considered a Mac but the price premium is just not worth it.

Ah. I actually considered an HP as well. Very, very strangely, with the specs I want (13" or smaller, decent GPU (for blender,alibre and open source cad stuff, long batt life (The hps seem to max at 2h) , sudden motion sensor), the Mac was actually the cheapest option.

The Asus one was the only one that seemed to be cheaper 'pound for pound'. -- assuming I weighed both windows and osx as being the same.

[Typo Lad]

The Mac price issue is mostly over-blown these days. Comperable systems, as SOGG has seen, cost the same or more. This is the case with the laptops, anyway.

Speaking of Macs, I got OS X running on a Thinkpad X31. Joy. Works like a dream.

[SOGG]

<snipped for space>
Speaking of Macs, I got OS X running on a Thinkpad X31. Joy. Works like a dream.

That's cool.

Now that I think about it, there really is no reason why that would not work. Since it's really just l